There are some adventures that captivate us and become instant bucket list items when heard of. The 2700 mile Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) is one of those. As the longest off-pavement route in the world, it crisscrosses the Continental Divide from the US-Mexico border and all the way up to the Canadian Rocky Mountains. I sat down with Laura Killingbeck, a freelance writer and adventurer, who has just finished bikepacking the route. We talked about her journey, and she shared her insights into the gear that made it possible.
Laura, thank you for taking the time to talk about your experience. Can you share the background of how you came up with the idea for your bicycling trip along the Continental Divide?
Sure! I started traveling when I was 18, where I hitchhiked for a year around the US and Mexico. That trip really kickstarted my love for adventure travel. Since then, I’ve done a lot of long-distance biking and hiking trips.
For this journey, I really wanted to connect a route that I had started when I was 23. Back then, I flew to Anchorage, Alaska, and biked south to San Francisco. It was a big transition in my life and it was a really beautiful experience as a 23-year-old. Now, at 38, I wanted to revisit that journey, starting from where I ended in San Francisco.
So for this trip, I biked down the Pacific Coast and then crossed over to the American Southwest, and spent a couple of months in the desert doing some remote work out of the caves. From there, I headed to the Mexican border and began at the southern terminus of the Great Divide, biking all the way up to Canada.
That's fascinating. Can you tell us more about the Great Divide? Is it primarily a biking route?
That's a great question. There are actually three distinct routes in that area: the Continental Divide hiking trail, the Tour Divide bikepacking race route, and the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
The GDMBR was originally mapped by the Adventure Cycling Association and has since become a real classic for the long-distance bikepacking community.
How was the trail itself, especially in terms of terrain and elevation?
The trail was incredible! It's mostly off-pavement, with lots of dirt roads, trails, and some single and double tracks, and mixed only with a bit of pavement. It's rugged and beautifully designed, taking you along the spine of the Rockies.
You also work full-time as a remote writer. How did you manage that on the route?
Part of this trip was an experiment to see how far I could take that idea of working remotely. I set up my workspace in backcountry locations, like caves or atop tree stumps, using a Bluetooth keyboard and my phone or tablet. It was an exciting way to blend work and adventure.
Let’s talk about gear. You have some experience from previous bikepacking trips, but how did you plan and select your equipment for this specific trip?
My approach to gear has evolved over time. My first bike tour was around Iceland when I was in my early twenties. It was very spontaneous and with minimal planning. I relied on friends' recommendations and the gear I chose ended up being fine, even though it wasn’t specifically bikepacking gear. It made me realize that it’s not necessary to buy everything new, I’d rather just use whatever gear I already have.
But over the years, as I have done more trips, I’ve built up a gear library and I’m slowly getting some nicer items as well.
And what's your philosophy regarding gear? Do you prioritize lightness or comfort?
It’s a good question because it really affects a person’s gear choices. I look for rugged gear, that will last over time. Since I often live off-grid during these trips, I need gear that's durable and comfortable in various conditions. I prefer items that can last for many years.
Did you discover any gear on this trip that you found particularly revolutionary?
Yes, I had some excellent bike bags on this trip. My frame bag and front harness are from Revelate Designs, and they were both fantastic for storage and accessibility. The front harness was especially handy for storing my bear canister, which made it easy to camp in grizzly country, because I didn’t have to worry about hanging my food.
Also, I had high-quality rain gear from Showers Pass, which was a game-changer compared to my previous trips.
What was the weather like during your trip?
The weather varied greatly, from over 100°F in the desert, with very little water, to waking up with my tent covered in ice in Canada. It was especially around Montana and entering Canada, where it started raining heavily. Because of that, I made some minor adjustments to my gear list as I entered the fall season.
Will you describe a typical day on your trip?
It varied a lot. On full riding days, I'd wake up with the sun, start with coffee, pack up, and hit the road. On workdays, I’d focus on my assignments before getting on the bike. So, I'd set up my makeshift desk on my bear canister and work inside my tent.
I would plan my biking days very loosely by trying to look ahead and see where the possible campsites were ahead on the route, and then I would just slowly make my way towards it. If I wanted to stop for something, like a beautiful place that I felt like working at, I would stop and do that. It was very flexible, and I tried not to plan my trip based on a daily distance to cover.
Tell us about your sleep system and tent choice.
I used an old ALPS Mountaineering Lynx 1-person tent, which has served me for thousands of miles. When I buy a piece of gear, I become kind of obsessed with taking it as far as I can possibly take it. I had this tent for eight years, and I’ve patched and mended it many times. It did great for this trip as well, but at the very end, the zipper finally broke, so I’ve had to retire it.
I used an old sleeping bag that I’ve also had for many years. It’s rated for a comfort temperature of -15°F so I felt very safe with it, knowing that I’d be able to handle the cold, fall nights.
I use a combination of an inflatable and foam Therm-a-Rest pad. I cut the foam pad to my core size, and I’d recommend doing this, because it provides extra warmth and protection against punctures.
That’s a small tent though. If you could do it again, would you have brought a bigger tent?
I love the Lynx tent because it’s really hardy. Some of the newer models are a bit lighter, so I’m probably going to look into that.
What bike did you use for this trip?
My bike’s name is Enigma, and it’s a Kona Sutra Unlimited. I chose that bike because Kona has a really great reputation for building bikes that have a fun feel. It's a versatile bike, great for off-road travel, and made specifically for attaching various bags and racks, but I also use it in my daily commute around town.
With the variety of terrain on the Great Divide, is there a minimum bike requirement?
You'd need a bike that can handle the rocky and chunky sections. Most people use rugged bikes, definitely not road bikes. The choice also depends on your riding style and speed of course. I saw a lot of different bikes out there, but I think that the Kona is a good compromise.
When you look back on the trip today, is there a particularly memorable nature experience that stands out?
There is one section in Wyoming called the Great Basin, which is a large expanse of high plains. It was a bit scary because it’s a long, remote section without a lot of people and facilities. I was feeling a little bit nervous as I entered the area. It was nighttime and I had just the little light from my headlamp to illuminate the path, but I ended up just accepting the moment and getting the best out of it.
At one point I stopped, turned off my light, and looked up and there was just the most incredible array of stars above me. It was just gorgeous, and I had never seen the sky like that before. It was a really special and unique moment to feel that the whole adventure had led me to have that experience.
That sounds incredible. I’m sure you inspire a lot of people to go out on adventures of their own. What advice would you give to others who dream of bikepacking the Great Divide?
Reflect on what's important to you and why you are doing this adventure. There are many different styles of riding and adventuring, and it’s easy to get caught up in the latest trends. People who value racing and speed are going to need ultralight gear, but that doesn’t apply to everyone. Choose your gear based on your values and test it out beforehand to make sure that you’ll have a comfortable trip.
That’s great advice. I follow your posts and I know that you are full of adventure. So, what's next on your bucket list?
I have this little array of possibilities, that I have considered doing next. I’m certainly interested in The Western Wildlands route, which is parallel and very similar to the Great Divide. I just love those long slow routes over the mountains.
Thank you, Laura, for sharing your incredible journey with us. To see her full gear list, please check out Laura's own website here. You can also sign up for her adventure newsletter, Laura's Stories.
And don't forget to follow Laura on her Instagram: @laurakillingbeck
More bikepacking stories? How about Kenneth's 7600km adventure on the European Divide Trail